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Daylight ahead

Didn't make the local British car show (again) this year but the car is showing signs of "Daylight Ahead".  Modified clutch and brake pedals are installed and a throttle pedal is fabricated from the original and was able to use the original throttle cable. Great! at least there will be one MG part on the car. I had to do some lath work to get the new steering wheel to mate up to the original steering shaft. The steering wheel is yet unidentified from E-Bay. I cut the splines out of an old MG steering wheel with a hole saw and then turned it down on the lath and drilled the splines out of the unknown hub and then bored the hole out to fit the splines I removed from the MG hub. I then used "DevCon" to seal the two together and secured them with six Allen cap screws so they can't rotate or come apart. All the pedal and wheel positioning was done when I finished putting on the new seat covers on the TR-7 seat. Additional supports were added under the floor for the seats by using one inch square tubing across the width of the floor under the car. Even though I moved the steering wheel and pedals over to the left about 1.75 inches, I noticed that the steering wheel is still not exactly in line with the seat. It would require even more to the left to be exact.

SteeringWheel1x1.jpg (30509 bytes)  Seat&Wheel1x1.jpg (38611 bytes)  SeatSupports1x1.jpg (29020 bytes)  Steering&Pedals1x1.jpg (35993 bytes)

Steering wheel  - Seat & Steering  - Seat supports - Steering & Pedals

All these years of working on thousands of MGs and driving them, I never noticed that the wheel was not centered. I guess you get use to anything.


Not a lot more modifying to do, just a little work on the rear disk brakes and fuel tank as far as running gear goes. The dash will be wood of my own design and the whole electrical system will also be unique. I will only have one 16 ga wire running to the front and back for power and a small bank of mini relays to operate various lights etc. The operating wires will be thin PC ribbon wire to operate the various relays for various lights etc.


I decided to run and tune the engine before installing it in the car so I put it on a stand and fabricated a temp instrument panel and mounted the coil pack and the air tank that will go in the car for starting. 

Air tank tests

I pressurized the tank to system pressure (125 PSI) and turned on the air to the air distributor. The first 5 or 6 revolutions of the engine were noticeably faster than the air hose (50 ft.). This was expected due to the resistance to flow of the 50 ft. hose. One charge of air from the on board tank spun the engine for 10 seconds.

Ten seconds will be enough to start the engine as long as I have it tuned. I have not tested the on board 12 volt compressor to see how long it takes to recharge the tank. This can be done any time, before or after the engine is installed in the car. Right now I need to test run the engine and tune it. The Olds engine ran in an Izuzu pick up years ago but with a stock intake and exhaust system. It now has direct ignition, 4 Weber carburetors and headers. The Webers came from a 308 Ferrari and now going on a 215 so some jet changing may be necessary. I am familiar with how to tune for jetting and ignition timing on a race engine from my years racing motorcycles in the AMA on stock car and horse tracks in the south east. 

Another reason for stand test runs is to check for coolant leaks as I have 14 inlet pipes going into the engine and 4 outlet connections. (I know, a plumber's nightmare) The piping will not be accessible with the engine in the car so now is the time to correct any leaks. I will pressurize the cooling system on the test stand even though in the car the cooling system will not have any pressure at all. The reason is that I will be using straight Propylene Glycol which has a very high boiling point and a very low freezing point and cools metal much better than water or normal antifreeze. 

TestStand2a.JPG (125414 bytes)   TestStand1.jpg (167155 bytes)    TestStand3a.JPG (97695 bytes)

I will soon make a video clip of the engine spinning on compressed air and another on the starting the engine on compressed air.


EngineIn11x1.jpg (48221 bytes)  EngineIn21x1.jpg (41230 bytes)  EngineIn31x1.jpg (28357 bytes)  EngineIn41x1.jpg (35146 bytes)

The engine finally installed, 1st pic is a front view of engine with carbs in place. The 2nd pic is a closer view showing wrapped headers and temp oil lines up front used for engine test run on the test stand. Also pictured are the air lines going into the block for the air start system. The 3rd pic is an angle view showing the vented brake rotor and Willwood caliper. The clutch and brake master cylinders are in place. The 4th pic is a frontal view showing the new bumper. No over riders will be installed on the front.


Play Video of Air Start System on Windows Media Player

The sound you will hear is the engine running on just compressed air.

This is shop line pressure of 120 PSI but the on board tank and pump system will be at 200 PSI.

Video 


DashPad11x1.jpg (26395 bytes)       BoxedAir11x1.jpg (27435 bytes)      MGgrill11x1.jpg (32150 bytes)

             Dash pad          Boxed in air          Two lower intakes

This is a 71 body shell so it had the new padded dash which has been changed to the 67 and earlier dash design, which required a top of the dash piece installed. The aluminum radiator extended down below the standard mounting so the lower valance holes were enlarged and the bottom and sides are boxed in to force the incoming air through the radiator. The oil cooler will also be housed in this boxed in area.


AirBox1a1x1.jpg (25030 bytes)  Airbox4a1x1.jpg (27743 bytes)  Ignition1a1x1.jpg (39030 bytes)

Lip at rear            Air intake          Ignition pack  

The air intake has a lip at the rear to deflect the air downward coming under the car to prevent air from entering the engine compartment and thus restricting air from going through the radiator. Not using an air dam under the front of a car causes air to compress under a car and that compressed air prevents some air from entering the engine compartment thus restricting a lot of air from going through the radiator. To prevent this without using an air dam I chose to use the open side vents in the fenders to relieve any built up engine compartment air pressure. An air dam may have helped but with the V-8 installed, there is very little room for compartment air to escape down and out the bottom.

I wanted to mount the ignition pack just behind the radiator but found I had no room to do that so it is mounted on the firewall behind the engine. The SS braided line under the ignition pack is the clutch hose.


The mounting of the oil cooler and the remote filter is complete. The only thing left there is to make up the hoses. The hoses will be routed in about the same place as the original "B" had them however the cooler is mounted under the front plate and the hoses will go down through the plate to the cooler mounted under the front plate. The oil filter block is mounted above the plate but the filter extends down below and is accessible through a door in the lower air box. 

FilterMount.jpg (116301 bytes)  Filter-Cooler1.jpg (124333 bytes)  

Filter Mount    Filter & Cooler


 

 

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