Page 8

Work is progressing after the oil pump set-back. A splash plate was added in the pan, front timing cover installed, water pump mounting plate and pump, Oil lines installed with stainless steel braid on, the holes where the oil lines went through were flared, The 1/2 in pipe from the control valve to the flex line to the air distributor is installed and an Aux external air valve and line to the tank was installed. An engine anti torque rod was made and installed.

From working around the air supply pipes from the air distributor to the block, they got scratched up so they were cleaned and polished again and recoated with a clear coat.

The pictures below are large so you can examine details more closely by moving the picture around.

Engine11x1.jpg (128575 bytes)  Engine41x1.jpg (415763 bytes)  Engine21x1.jpg (269818 bytes)

Under the hood work needed to be done includes, Make a pulley for the water pump, purchase a alternator and make a pulley and mounts including idler pulleys. Install the radiator and make hoses to fit and install electric cooling fan. Also, fuel hoses and a fuel rail needs to be made and a mount for the throttle cable. A safety latch needs to be designed and made and a control cable installed. An air supply duct needs to be installed for the forced air cooling system for the clutch. Then the wiring for the engine compartment and lights needs to be installed.

But first the instrument panel wiring will progress along with a fuse and relay panel to operate and control the engine and lights. While drilling holes in the center consol panel for the choke pull and the ignition advance control I noted the urethane finish on the wood was not good so I block sanded it and am spraying it with a new coat of polyurethane. 

DashPlus11x1.jpg (71655 bytes)  Alt1a1x1.jpg (111462 bytes)  Hose&Alt1a1x1.jpg (85613 bytes)

Consol refinished and mounted and an alternator was found. Due to limited space, I searched and found this small alternator with an internal regulator. Also finished making the water pump pulley. I have a pulley for the alternator but it will require a little lathe work to fit this alternator. 

A vacuum port was added to my sand cast manifold and the Vacuum gauge is connected and the oil pressure line and oil temp lines are connected to the remote oil filter mount. Also the air pressure gauge is now connected to the air tank. and an external air valve has been added under the hood to fill the air tank. I have tested several 12v air pumps that claim 250 PSI but found that every one stalled at about 40 PSI. (So much for truth in advertising) I may build one of my own. Next step is to install a belt idler and measure the belt length to find a belt. Still some work to do under the hood.

A solenoid to connect and disconnect the air distributor drive to the cam, radiator hoses and an electric fan will just about finish under the hood except some more wiring and brake lines to the master cylinder. A fuel rail and lines and fuel vapor lines will also be made. I could not locate a suitable solenoid for the engagement system so I have decided to operate the system with a cable from the center consol.

I did locate a idler / adjuster and a serpentine belt to fit and have made the mounts etc. I wanted a limited amount of work to change a belt and was able to rout the belt so that only one air hose fitting needed to be removed to change a belt and that hose has no pressure on it, except when starting.

Beltsys2a1x1.jpg (70979 bytes)

Next step is to design and build the distributor engagement and disengagement system and install the control cable to operate it. Then mount the radiator (already pre-fitted) and build the hose system. Here is the system I decided to use. I installed a second "choke" cable in the center console to operate the engage / disengage system.

  Control4a1x1.jpg (80458 bytes)  RadHose2a1x1.jpg (51876 bytes)

The remaining work under the hood is then an electric radiator fan and wiring for the front lights and the brake lines from the master cylinder. 

I have divided the car up into sections and will finish this "Under the Hood" section and move to the next section. "Interior and Glass" and "Under the Car". Under the car is still a lot of work which includes some lathe work to make spacers for the axles and mounting of the rear calipers. Also the fuel tank needs to be cut open and the foam needs to be installed and a bolt on lid made for the tank and mounting of the fuel pump. Also all the brake lines need to be made and installed and a fuel line.

EngComp11x1.jpg (43750 bytes)  

The wiring for the lights is in the "Under the Car" section too. Also the cleaning and refinishing of the wheels and mounting the tires is also in this section along with the 8 individual exhaust pipe system too. 

The fuel tank is finished with safety foam installed and a wire cage built around the gauge sending unit and a loose baffle removed. I made a steel cover plate and a gasket for the top cover. A after-market fuel pump was mounted and a fuel line run forward. I didn't like the routing of the original line, so I routed away from the exhaust and put an insulated cover over it. but this made it necessary to go into the front wheel well which made it accessible to stones brought up by the front tire so I made a steel cover for it. The piece of sheet metal I used had a paint pattern that looks like "Carbon Fiber" but it is steel. 

FuelPump1a1x1.jpg (31069 bytes)  FuelLine1a1x1.jpg (35691 bytes)

Fuel Pump             Fuel Line

I wanted a hydraulic fuel pressure gauge as I found that electric gauges with a transducer are often inaccurate and unreliable. However, I did not want raw fuel inside the cockpit so I built a simple transfer device that transmits fuel pressure to silicone brake fluid pressure which operates the gauge. Since fluids can't be compressed I can expect an accurate gauge reading without the danger of a gasoline line in the cockpit. Very little pressure is lost operating the diaphragm inside my unit.

FuelTrans1.jpg (103854 bytes)

The last work under the hood is the brake lines from the master cylinder and the peddle to master cylinder rods. Since the brake master cylinder was MG and matched the car I was able to use an original rod, but the clutch master cylinder was from a 5 speed Triumph TR-7 and I had to make a operating rod for it.

I was unable to use the original brake lines so I am using generic lines from a NAPA parts store and making all the bends myself with a line bending tool. A different routing was necessary due to the space that the 215 Olds engine took up. The line to the front brakes was almost like the original except I needed to rout further forward before routing down to the cross member. The rear line was a problem due to the headers. Even though the headers are wrapped, I still didn't want the line to run so close so I decided to run through the fender well and then down under the car next to the front frame member. I will put a metal guard over the line in the fender well like I did on the other side for the fuel line. This should keep stones from the front tire pounding on the line and keep any dirt build up on the line. 

BrakeLines21x1.jpg (48813 bytes)

The only other thing under the hood will be the addition of a set of air horns to be added and that can be done later after the hood is installed. Future work include a fresh air box for the carburetors' intake and a front hood lock-down. Even though with the hood closed you can't pull up on the front of the hood due to the geometry of the four link hood hinge system, however, it is possible at high speeds, that it may flex enough to pull it up and cause major damage so I have designed a positive lock system to prevent that. 

Major Mistakes Found

I found two major mistakes that my design engineer "Egor" had made, which required some work to back track and correct.

With the car turned up on it's side on the rotisserie, I noted that I only had about one eighth of an inch clearance between the crankshaft ignition trigger wheel and the front cross member. Any hard bump on the road could cause the motor mounts to compress that much and cause the trigger wheel to contact the cross member. Now I was faced with either remove the engine and make the correction or drop the front suspension, cross member and all. 

I still have not run the front brake lines and I needed to make new stands to mount the car further from the rotisserie to gain clearance so I can make the exhaust system. Since Egor had mounted the car too close to the rotisserie frame. 

So I decided to drop the front suspension and also at the same time make new taller stands to get clearance for the exhaust system too. The stands were mounted to the rear bolts that hold the cross member to the frame on the car.

A lot of strange looking jigs were assembled that looked like what you might imagine the Egyptians may have used to make the pyramids but I got it done. Cut the cross member deeper and welded in a plate and rattle can painted the cross member so as not to upset the mice that may see it and cause rust bunnies to move in on the cross member.

The second mistake was when I noted the nut securing one of the pinch bolts in the Moroso steering "U" joints looked loose, so I tried to tighten it. This was a wedge bolt, and as I tightened it kept pulling through. I must have not measured it correctly Er! I mean Egor didn't measure it correctly. I removed the steering rack mounts and slipped the "U" joint out and sure enough it was drilled wrong. I could either weld up the notch in the shaft a little or drill the "U" joint out to take a 3/8" stud and wedge shape it. I opted for the 3/8" hole in the "U" joint which I was able to do in the car. Then made a new wedge bolt in 3/8".

These two screw ups cost almost a weeks work to correct so I fired Egor (again). He had done such a great job designing the new stands to mount the car higher on the rotisserie that I decided to hire him back (as usual). He has a unique asset in that he works for nothing which is a determining factor in hiring him back.

I can't find any more modifications or any work to do under the hood so I will mount the hood. This has already had a fit check, so it is just a matter of putting it on. The dash and instrument panel is complete and I have just completed the seat mounts. Since I can't seem to put anything on the car without first modifying it, I will remove the hand brake and make a device to disable the return spring in the button so that the hand brake can be used in driving (initiating a brake slide) but have the option to return to a locking brake for a park brake. It would be easy to make it like the MGA but I don't like a spring always in tension, trying to unlock a park brake. So I will make it an "Either/Or" lock.

Mg-1a1x1.jpg (71093 bytes)  Mg-3a1x1.jpg (37808 bytes)

   Hood Installed  Instrument Panel

HandBrake1x1.jpg (28101 bytes)  Differential1x1.jpg (40938 bytes)

The hand brake and caliper mounts are finished and installed on the differential housing. The axles are completed other then the wheel studs. All that is necessary to install the differential in the car is to weld one more ear on the torque arm and install the wheel studs in the axles. The brake disks with the hand brake drums inside are ready to install also. The axles and the disks have been indexed for the MG bolt pattern. 

Page 9