The differential and rear brakes are complete and are ready to install in the car. The rear shocks are tube type that were installed before the project was started. Not that the Armstrong lever 50/50 shocks were not a good application on the BGT. I just wanted to try a different shock ratio and the tube type are less expensive and an easy conversion. I did this shortly after I bought the car from my son and they worked well. It was necessary to use a ball peen hammer to put added dents in the hump in the body for two ears on the Ford differential housing to clear if the springs were fully compressed.
The leaf springs were cleaned and the spacers replaced and new domestic car clamps installed.
The differential as noted early in this documentation of the conversion is a Ford Mustang of the early 80's and is a 3.05 ratio and a limited slip and called the 8.8 rear end. The outer tubes are the original MGB-GT and the axles are the Mustang cut down and re-splined. Egor did the measuring of the axles (so I don't have to accept the blame) and he missed the distance on the left side length by 3/16 of an inch. This turned into a monkey puzzle when I was making the backing plate for the shoe hand brakes on the left side. But all is well that ends well.
The rear disk is from a 95 Ford Crown Victoria as are the hand brake shoes. The brake adjusters are the original BGT and the operating mechanism is hand made similar to the BGT system. The hand brake cable is an original BGT.
The calipers are US Brake which I had to make 1/8" spacers to give clearance for the disk. I modified the hand brake lever to have a "lock" to prevent the latch from holding so I can use the hand brake to initiate rear wheel slides entering turns. The B and the BGT go into under steer when braking going into a turn especially on wet roads. In the past I could counteract this by down shifting as I enter a turn and then delay the release of the clutch to initiate the breaking loose of the rear end thus going into over steer which I like and can have more control of it in a turn then I can with under steer.
The brake master cylinder is a early 70's BGT tandem cylinder. Since the front calipers are 4 piston on a vented rotor and the rear are two piston on a solid disk of a larger diameter then the front, there may be a problem in braking. (fronts should lock up just before the rear) for stability in a panic stop. I may have to add a regulator to the rear line after testing the system on different surfaces.
Hand Brake System Rear End Completed
After the differential is bolted in, the exhaust system needs to be completed and the wheels refinished and tires mounted. Then the car can come off of the rotisserie and put down on it's wheels. Then fluids can be installed and the car tested for leaks and test runs. Then some interior finished and a little exterior trim and it is ready to license and show.
Cleaned and painted the wheels. These are mag wheels and I painted the backs and in between the spokes with gloss black and sanded the rim and front of the spokes so it looks like brushed stainless steel then clear coated it. I added a phony three ear knock off spinner just for looks. I normally don't like phony stuff on a car but I gave in this time as someone gave me the knock off spinners and I couldn't find a set of center caps to fit the mag wheels. I used epoxy to glue some MG emblems in the center of the knock offs.
I turned the design and construction of the exhaust system over to Egor. However, I didn't know his background was that he use to work in a spaghetti factory. Here is what he came up with.
I still need to make some rear hangers and powder coat the ends and paint the rest with heat paint but they are built. Then I will install the differential and wheels and it is ready to install fluids and test run. The interior still needs some work but that can be finished while it is on it's wheels. No more need for it to stay on the rotisserie.