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Questions and answers from All Experts (Triumph)

Name: jacob

Subject: gt6 add j type od?

Question: Hello,
 I picked up a 73 gt6 mk3 with a four speed.  Bought a used j type overdrive.  Hoping I can make it work.  I do have the tranny that the OD was attached too, though it doesn't seem complete enough to rebuild.  The OD seems as though it would mount up to my tranny, albeit there is an extra hole on the top left of the OD case.  Any potential here?

Answer: Hi Jacob,
I have made this swap on other BLM cars but have not done it on a GT-6. However, I believe it is the same.
You will have to disassemble both boxes to confirm that it will work. The mainshaft (output shaft) needs to be changed. So you need to remove both mainshafts and compare them. All of the splines forward of the back of the trans. must be exactly the same and note the forward end of the shaft to confirm that the bearings will work that go between the input shaft (1st motion shaft) and the mainshaft. Then compare the bolt pattern of the OD adapter plate so it will bolt up OK.
Also you will have to wire up the OD so as to NOT allow the OD to engage when in reverse. Look on your shift tower for extra switch positions for safety switches. If you don't have them you will need to wire in a safety switch and warning light so you only engage the OD in 3rd & 4th gear. I had one wired up to just give a large red warning light connected into a back-up light switch to remind me to be sure the OD switch was OFF. Another method would be to wire in a relay on your backup light circuit to iterupt the power going to the OD solenoid.
I had a A-H 3000 come to me in a shop with the OD exploded. The owner thought it was cool to have OD in all 4 gears but forgot and left it in OD when he backed up.
I don't know of any extra holes in the trans case when ODs were installed.
Let me know how it goes,
Howard

Name: Jess

Subject: 1971 TR6 servo unit

Question: Howard,
I have been hearing an air leak in the servo unit the last few times I drove the car.This morning when I started the car,the brakes were locked up and would not release.Is there a diaphragm in the unit and can I repair it myself?
Thanks...Jess

Answer: Hi Jess,
If the brakes are locked up you need to loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster to see if the brakes free up. If they do you will need to purchase a new booster as they are not serviceable.
Howard

Name: Bill

Subject: 75 TR 6 clutch

Question: I recently had my clutch replaced. After not driving the car for several weeks i started the car and could not get it into gear. The mech that fixed it said that the flywheel was stuck and suggested how to get it working again, which was successful. Ever since then though , when I depress the clutch there is a high pitched squeal , which he says is rust on the fly wheel. It occurs only around 1000RPM and if i rev the engine to 2000 it will go away. Any ideas what is really wrong and how to resolve this obnoxious noise?

Answer: Hi Bill,
There should not be any noise when you depress the clutch pedal. The most likely is a bad clutch release bearing. If there was rust on the flywheel when he put a clutch in it, he should have cleaned that off. Also even if that was the noise it would have stopped making noise after a short time.
Howard

Name: art guy

Subject: back suspention (77 Spitfire)

Question: I have picked up a 77 spitfire with 50,000 miles on it. we only have had a few minor things to work on. Mostly we have run it just to improve how it runs. Anyway. the rear end sits with the wheels slanted. The spring looks ok, How am I to know what the suspension should look like? and should i replace a leaf or two?

Answer: Hi Art,
If the wheels are leaning in at the top that is negative camber and caused by a weak rear spring or an excess load in the trunk. You either need a new spring or you need to install "coil over" shocks to help support the load. "Gas over oil" shocks may help if it is not too low. If you have a local spring company they can sometimes re-arch an old sagging spring but it may be difficult to have that done because of the location of the spring making it as or more costly than purchasing a new spring.
Howard

Name: dan

Subject: grease cap removal on front disk (Triumph or MG)

Question: QUESTION: How do you remove the grease cap on the front wheel for removing the disk?
Thanks Dan

ANSWER: Hi Dan,
I am assuming you have a wire wheel car. Inside the splined hub is a threaded lug attached to the end of the grease cap. It is a 5/16 NF stud and you need to get a long nut and screw it half way on to a 5/16 NF stud or long bolt. First put a standard 5/16 NF nut up on the stud first and use it as a lock nut to jam against the long nut to hold it in place. Use the stud (or long bolt) as a tool to screw it on to the grease cap stud. Then you can either attach the stud to a slide hammer or just grab the end of the stud or bolt with a pair of vice grips and tap the vice grips with a hammer. Some are not too tight and you can just pull them out by wiggling them.
if you have any problems let me know.
Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I guess I should have said that the wheel is not a wire wheel condition, wheel has a center hub cap, with a dome grease cap, small hole in the center.

Answer: Hi Dan,
If it is a disk wheel car the grease cap come off like all car grease caps. You just either pry under the lip (if it has a lip) with a thin flat blade screwdriver all the way around until you work it off. If it does not have a lip you need a large pair of channel lock pliers to grab it and work it off. When you go to reinstall it use a plastic or rubber hammer to knock it back on with.
Howard

Name: Carl

Subject: Engine Swap for Triumph Spitfire

Question: My son recently purchased a used Spitfire from a local used car dealer, not sure if '76 or '77 with 1500cc(approx). It was stated as having a new rebuild with a Weber on it.  Within just a couple of days, apparently a washer that was left 'in' the carb made its way through the fuel inlet valve and you know what happens next.  Since there are no 'Lemon Laws' on used vehicles in our state, I told him that I thought I had heard of people swapping out the triumph motor with an older '69-'72 Datsun L16,L18,L20 with much success, which also can be found for a real reasonable price.  He's not interested in making it a powerhouse, just wants to get it going without having to rebuild the current factory motor.  Any ideas or web links that you know of?  Thanks
Carl

Answer: Hi Carl,
What you say may be true or not. I have no experience with conversions on spitfires. You might look on the net for John's Cars in Texas, they have some conversion kits for British cars. I don't know if they have one for the Spitfire.
The only thing I know is that it is usually a large job and requires fabricating skills and some shop equipment like welding and cutting equipment.
Howard

Name: Bruce

Subject: Upgrading the 4 speed transmission??? (75 Spitfire)

Question: Howard,  I've got a 75 Spit with a 4-speed and would like to upgrade to an overdrive one.  I obtained a Type J Overdrive unit that was totally rebuilt, and have been looking for an overdrive transmission to mate it with.  Talking with a friend who is into MGBs, he indicated that it should be a fairly simple bolt on to the regular transmission, wiring it up, getting the proper mounts for the overdrive, and cutting the drive shaft down to accommodate the overdrive.  Is this correct, or do I need to find an overdrive transmission to use with the overdrive unit?  The money isn't the problem, it is finding an overdrive transmission.  I'd appreciate your help on this problem.
Many thanks in advance!!

Bruce

Answer: Hi Bruce,
No, you can not just bolt the OD to a standard trans. The "output shaft" (main shaft) is different and the OD needs that OD mainshaft. If you could find an OD mainshaft you could install the mainshaft in place of the standard mainshaft and then install the OD OK.
Many British car clubs have Spitfire owners who gather parts cars and that is then a possible source of a OD transmission.
If you have deep pockets you could probably get all you need from Moss Motors in CA.
Howard

Name: Marlow White

Subject: TR6 Oil Pressure Gauge; tube installation

Question: QUESTION: I'm trying to fit new 3/16th inch tubing on the oil pressure gauge; but, it is too tight.  If I heat it, it collapses.  What to do?

ANSWER: What kind of tube are you using? and what are you trying to force it on to? Or into?
Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: 3/16" nylon airbrake tubing

Answer: If you are trying to force this nylon tube over a metal tubing, don't try to heat the nylon but heat the metal tube if it is not to close to the gauge so as to damage the gauge. I would guess the same is true on the other end. first smooth the end of each metal tube with a file and then Emory cloth or sand paper before heating the metal so it will have a chance to soften the nylon and slide into it.
Howard

Name: nelson

Subject: triumph flooding carb

Question: hello i have a 1965 triumph with dual strombergs 175 cd the rear carb is flooding the rear carb i take a look at the center of the plunger thingy and gas is just pouring out of the hole i think this cause that the float level is too high i need specs on the float level on this model carb tghhanks

Answer: The float level setting is 17mm when just closed. Measured from the float bowel gasket surface to the bottom surface of the float itself.

Name: David

Subject: TR6 Window Adjustment

Question: Hi,
   I recently purchased a 1973 TR-6 and I love it.  Although not concurs, the car is in very good shape.  Looks like somebody restored it years past and did a good job.  There is a small issue with the roll up windows -- they don't line up with the window frame too well.  (ie, if you roll them up all the way, they are too high in the doorframe.  Are there stops built into the winding mechanism?  It looks to me that it is an adjustment issue.  They don't seal too well either and are a little cockeyed in the frame.  Any ideas.  Thanks in advance and regards.  David

Answer: Hi David,
You need to remove the inner door panel and loosen the four bolts holding the window winder assembly and the three bolts holding the remote winder assembly and you can move them around a little to make the window align better. You can also loosen and move the lower tracks to better align the window.
Howard

Name:  Alex

Subject: Cylinder head removal for maintenance '71 spitfire

Question: Dear Howard,
    How are you? It's been a while. I am attempting to remove my cylinder head from my '71 spitfire to check the pistons and the valves. But i am at a loss. I cannot for the best of me remove the darn cylinder head. I have removed the the whole fan setup. the rockar assembly all the nuts i can find. is there a certain way to remove it that i am just missing? If you could help it would be very helpfull. If you need any info just ask.
                                            Alex

Answer: Hi Alex,
It is common for a head to be stuck even though the head nuts have been removed. Don't give in to the erge to drive any kind of wedge in between the head and the block. Even though they are cast iron you can still damage the edge of both surfaces.
What many mechanics do is to double nut each stud and remove all of the studs first. This makes it easier to get the head broke loose. If you are not familiar with double nutting a stud, it is as it sounds, You install one nut with no washer till it is just snug and run a second nut down on the first nut and turn the first nut back against the second nut very tight, then using the first nut try to loosen the stud. It works most of the time.
Then with a engine hoist or what ever you have, apply lifting pressure to one end of the head only. (I usually use the very front of the head) and if it don't come loose just leave that lifting pressure on over night.
Even though you don't normally apply any kind of sealer on a head gasket when installing one, there is a sealer already applied by most head gasket manufactures which is activated by heat when the engine is run.
Good luck, let me know.
Howard

Name: John

Subject: exhaust header (79 Spitfire)

Question: Howard,
I have recently purchased a 79 Spitfire, the owner is deceased and he had been "wrenching" on the car. I'm not really sure what all he had done. The car, I am told, as not run since he removed carb and intake and installed a Pacesetter header. Two questions for a limited knowledge person as myself: 1) there are two treaded openings on the header that I am sure must be plugged or attached to something. I can't seem to find the right size plug to thread into the holes. Any ideas?  2) Car has sat or three years, I got it to fire with starting fluid, what do I need to do fuel and carb wise to get it running? When it did start it revved to 5k rpm's I immediately shut it down and have not tried since.(thinking holes on header have something to do with this as well). I really  enjoy reading you and Jim's answers. Thanks, John

Answer: Hi John,
Pacesetter sells headers with and without ports for pollution equipment (EGR) and the plugs are threaded for that equipment. I don't remember what size the threads are but they have to be either US (NF or NC), pipe thread (I doubt)or metric and all are available at any hardware or automotive store for a plug. Pacesetter will know what threads were used. Contact Pacesetter on the Net.

If your RPM went to 5 K on start up with starting fluid, the throttle must have been wide open. No, the open ports in the headers had nothing to do with that.
Any car that sat for three years needs the whole fuel system cleaned out. Drain the tank & lines and remove the carb and take the float chamber off and put in a new needle and seat and clean the carb. Remove the top cover and remove the piston being careful not to bend the needle. Inspect the diaphragm for tears or holes and replace if necessary. You do not need to do much with the temp compensator on the right side (long plastic cover) and confirm the large brass screw in the right side is screwed all the way in. The decell valve (right side and close to the throttle shaft) will usually be self disabled because the diaphragm is probably very hard and inop.
If your carb has a coolant operated choke, that may be a problem so cover that last when everything is cleaned out.
Let me know how you do,
Howard

Name: Jason

Subject: spitfire sneezes

Question: QUESTION: I was wondering how to adjust the air and fuel mixture.  When I step on the gas
while in gear the carb sneezes,  otherwise it sounds great at idle.  I know my
timing is right and the engine and carb have just been rebuilt.  Someone told me
that it may be running either too lean or too rich.   So how might I be able to
adjust this?   Thanks a lot, any help would be great.

ANSWER: Jason, it depends on what Spitfire you have. One with twin SUs or one Stromberg carb.

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QUESTION: its a spit MK IV with one stromberg carb

ANSWER: Before you condemn the fuel mixture for a "sneeze" back into the carb when accelerating, you need to check what takes the place of the accelerator pump on a Stromberg. Unscrew the top cap and lift the cap up about 2 in. and push it back down. If you don't feel like you are pushing on hydraulic resistance, put a few squirts of engine oil in the top and try it again. Then if you get the hydraulic resistance go road test the car to see if it fixed the problem.
If you did have hydraulic resistance at first, get a long 3mm Allen wrench and down in that top tube where the oil was is the jet adjustment. Clockwise richens the mixture. Road test between each half turn.
If that don't correct the problem, you could have other problems like a leaking intake valve, a vacuum leak, air filter not in place or even a fouled plug.
A rich mixture will not make it sneeze back on acceleration.
Let me know how you do.
Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks very much for the help, unfortunately it has been raining non stop
here so I havent been able to get to the car.  I forgot to mention, and maybe
this will make a difference.  Before I had the carb rebuilt it was sneezing right
out the intake,  now its sneezing through the gasket at which the carb
mounts to the manifold.  When you say remove the cap do you mean, the very
top, that requires 4 screws being removed,  or theres like black sprocketed
thing on top that looks like it can be turned.    Like I said, I am very new to
the spitfire world,   even the carburetor world is very different to me as well.  
The air filter is in place, the plugs are new, I dont know about a leaking intake
valve or a vacuum leak.   I also would not know how to troubleshoot to that
point,  its kind of a learn as I go process.   I appreciate all your help thus far. 
Thanks again.  Jason

Answer: Yes Jason, the plastic cap in the center of the top is what unscrews. Once you unscrew it lift it up and you will find the cap has a long pin attached to it with a small piston on the bottom. When you attempt to push it back down you will (or you should) feel hydraulic resistance. If not remove it and put about a teaspoon of engine oil into the hole and replace the piston in on top of the oil and push the cap down and tighten the cap back down and road test the car again. If that don't cure the problem let me know and I will tell you how to test for other problems.
However if you can see a leak (your term sneeze) between the carb and the manifold, you MUST correct that now. If the nuts securing the carb to the manifold are loose, tighten them and if they are not loose you are going to have to remove the carb and replace the gasket.
Let me know and I will try to walk you through the procedure.
Howard