Jaguar
Questions and Answers from "All Experts"
Name: Eddie
Subject: 1987 xj6
Question: My car has been siting for about a year now. I went to start it it
fired right up I decided to change wires, cap and button on it.After doing so it
has not started since. I changed from bosch platinum to platinum+2. Thats the
only thing different done to it. Now with the +2 i get no spark from the
distributor to the plug. With the old plug i get a weak spark. Spark from the
ignition coil and distributor has a good blue spark. BTW i also put a new
ignition coil on also. What can be the reason for it not to fire up. Ive been
told it could be the fuel pump. In which im not hearing that fuel pump humming
noise at all. And someone also mentioned something about it may have jumped
timing.
Answer: Hi Eddie,
The most likely problem with the fire up would be to recheck the firing order
and position of the new wires as it is very easy to get them mixed up when
installing in the cap.
Even though it should run on platinum plugs, I am not a fan of platinum plugs.
Since you lost spark you need to not leave any stone unturned meaning go back
and test all of the new parts. A good test of a rotor button is to pull the coil
wire out of the cap and with the cap off have someone spin the engine while you
hold the coil wire about 1/8 th. of an inch from the center of the rotor. If a
spark jumps, the rotor is bad. (yes, new rotors can be bad) Look at the
"tooth" inside the rotor and confirm it is in the same position as the
old one. Look at the carbon brush inside the dist. cap to see that it is in-tack
and spring loaded. Put one of your new plugs on the end of the coil wire and
spin the engine to see that you have a good blue spark.
As for the fuel pump, do this.
Undo the three wire clips on the front of the air filter and slide the nose cone
forward out of the way and remove the airfilter canister. Turn the ignition key
to the "ON" position and reach in the front of the airflow meter and
open the flap door. As soon as you do this, you should hear the pump running and
hear the fuel circulating through the rail and lines going back to the tank.
That is a preliminary test of the fuel pump circuit.
Let me know what you get in these tests.
Howard
Name: ROBBIE SALMAN
Subject: 87 xjs12
Question: i have a 1987 jag v12 and the fan belt is very loose causing the
car to over heat how do i tighten the belt thanks Robbie
Answer: Hi Robbie,
The adjuster is easily accessible on top of the power steering pump on the
drivers side. It should be obvious as it is a threaded adjusting rod (like the
other belt adjusters) with a 9/16 wrench on the two nuts on either side of the
block attached to the top of the power steering pump. Loosen the outside nut and
run the inside nut so as to move the pump. Don't over tighten the belt or you
can cause damage to the bearings in the power steering pump as well as the water
pump bearings. The other belts are adjusted in the same manner. good luck.
Howard
Name: Bill
Subject: fuel tank switching valve
Question: I recently replaced the fuel tank switching valve with a new one, but
I cannot seem to get it to switch tanks. The switch is working because the
return valves are opening, so I may either have it hooked up incorrectly or it
is a bad valve. Could you please remind me which way the hoses reconnect
to the switch? I think I have them correct, but I thought I wold make
sure. Any trouble shooting ideas? Please let me know. Thanks.
Answer: Hi Bill,
As for connecting it up wrong. The only thing you could do is turn it around
since the two lines from the tanks are very stiff and will only go on the two
ports that are in line with each other. If you were to hold it up as a
"T" the fuel lines go on the two top arms of the "T" and the
fuel pump goes on the bottom of the "T". That only leaves the
possibility of turning it around. When the power if OFF of the valve, it should
have a clear open connection between the pump and the LEFT tank. A preliminary
test of the switching valve is to turn on the ignition and set the switch to the
RIGHT tank and unplug the POWER wire to the valve. This only tells you the
solenoid is working but will not tell you if you turned it around. Make
temporary contact several times with the POWER wire and you should hear the
valve click each time.
The system is designed so that no matter what item fails in the switching system
of the three valves it will always run on the left tank. It takes power to all
three valves to make it run on the right tank and not transfer fuel to the wrong
tank. No matter which valve fails you can operate off of the LEFT tank.
Let me know,
Howard
Name: Bill
Subject: front door locks on XJ6
Question: I have a 1987 XJ6 on which the front door locks do not work - not even
manually. They do not work manually or by turning the key in the driver
side door. I can't figure out how to access them or what may be wrong.
The rear locks will work manually. Any thoughts?
Answer: Hi Bill,
If they don't work manually then you need to correct that first before looking
at the electric motors etc. You have to remove the inner door panels to access
any part of them.
Can you lock them by pushing the lock lever forward while sitting in the car
with the door closed?
Let me know,
Howard
Name: tonie
Subject: series 3 rear quarter light removal
Question: Howard- I got it out! If you have any tips for installation great,
otherwise I'm OK,
thanks again, T.
Answer: Hi Tonie,
Are you talking about the bulb or the whole assembly? If you are talking about
the bulb just spray a little WD-40 in the socket to make it push in and rotate
easier.
Howard
Name: Tonie
Subject: series 3 rear quarter light removal
Question: I have done everything that the factory manual says and up to this
point the
glass is slightly loose (or more accurately the framing around it is slightly
loose)
but I still am not able to remove it. Perhaps I am being a bit too gentle? Any
ideas, tricks , tips greatly appreciated! Thank you for sharing your vast
knowledge with us!
Answer: First Tonie, what are you calling a "quarter Light"?
If you are talking about a "Side Marker" light it only has one small
screw holding the lens on and it is not glass it is plastic. If you are talking
about the chrome piece that the lens attaches to, it is held in place by two
small nuts accessible by removing the tail light assembly. If this is not how
your side marker light is held on then you don't have a series III Jag. The only
other option is that someone has replaced the side marker lights with some other
brand car's lights. Let me know,
Howard
Name: Bill
Subject: heater in 1987 XJ6
Question: The heater works in this car but seems kind of weak. The windows
steam up all of the time with quite a bit of moisture. I live in an area
with lots of rain and high humidity, but can something be done to increase the
airflow of the heater fan? Or is there perhaps something putting
moisture into the heater air? Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks.
Answer: Hi Bill,
Yes, there can be moisture in the heating system. If it is coming from a leak in
the heater core it will usually put moisture on the windshield and you can
usually smell it. Other possibles are stopped up AC drain since the AC system
runs when the heater is on. Also it is possible that the blend doors are not
operating correctly and in the rain you are getting rain in from the fresh air
intake into the car. As with any automatic AC/heat system they are complex and
have several vacuum operated doors controlled by a rotating drum that opens and
closes several vacuum valves depending on what is asked for. Another item is
that there are two fans.
This system is difficult for a DIY to diagnose and repair and even difficult for
an experienced mechanic with the manual to do.
My advice is first look for an experienced Jag AC/heater mechanic and if that is
not possible, bite the bullet and purchase the factory series III service
manual.
Howard
Name: Rick
Subject: 86 xj6 power door locks
Question: Hello, power door locks in-operable....checked the switch/solenoid in
drivers door & it checked ok.
Haynes manual says there is ciruit breaker and a relay for the power locks &
removed the drivers side & the passengers side under-dash panels, but cannot
find either one [wire colors in Haynes do not match wires on under-dash relays].
Any Ideas? Where are the circuit breaker and relay for the power looks?
Thanks.
Answer: Hi Rick,
The ser. III XJ-6 had either solenoids or motors. The earlier cars had solenoids
and the later had motors. The easy way to tell which you had was the sound. Each
time you would lock the drivers door you would hear a loud "Clunk"
from the trunk solenoid. If you had motors type(which I think you have) you
would have heard nothing. (when they were working) Only the solenoid type had a
"Lock Relay" and a "Unlock Relay" and a "Thermal Braker".
The "Motor" type had no relay nor thermal braker. They did have an
in-line fuse in the Aux fuse panel area up to vin # 470739 and a 15a fuse in the
#17 fuse position from vin #470740 on. Each motor had only two wires which would
lock in one polarity and unlock in the reverse polarity. (including the trunk
lock) where as the earlier solenoid type could not unlock the trunk
electrically.
The two systems were easy to ID by their appearence too. The solenoids were
round and the motors were flat trapazoid shaped boxes. I hope this helped.
Howard