Jaguar Stake down Kit installation

 

There are more then one brand of stake down kit to hold down the valve lifter sleeves. Over the last few years I ran across two different kits, but don't know if there are others. Both of the ones I have installed had the same designed plates but used different screws. One used self tapping screws which I did not use as I felt that the small filings of the self tapping screws could get down into the pan. 

The following is my version of the installation process. 

To start with, if any of the exhaust lifter sleeves have come up I feel it is necessary to remove the exhaust cam to reseat the sleeves before installing the kit. I have been installing the kit in a fresh rebuilt head to head off the problem of the sleeves coming up. 

The sleeves will come up mainly if the head had been over heated and usually only on the exhaust side. As the head cools off they are clamped tight again and are difficult to drive back down for two reasons. One is that the cam is in the way and you can NOT use a drift on the edge to drive one back down. The second reason is that these sleeves are not steel or iron and if you try to drive one down in by use of a punch or drift, you will damage it as they break easily. 

This is why I insist that the cam be removed first and a plate or a seal driver be used to drive the sleeve back in. It is a good idea to heat the engine up just before starting work so when you get to the sleeves the head is still warm. If you have not done this type of work you should follow my procedure.

Remove the exhaust cam cover and rotate the engine until the notch in the cam next to the front cam bearing cap is pointed in toward the head at a 90 degrees from the cam cover gasket surface. Then stuff a shop rag into the cam chain area just below the center of the cam sprocket so as to leave the bolts in the front of the cam sprocket exposed. Use a punch or suitable drift to hammer the lock tabs away from the bolt heads holding the cam sprocket to the cam. 

WHAT EVER YOU DO BE CAREFUL NOT TO UNDO THE LARGE WIRE CLIP IN THE EDGE OF THE CAM SPROCKET!!!

Remove the bolts that you can access (2) and be sure to catch the locking plate if it is across the two bolts you remove. Now you will see why the shop rag was a necessary tool to prevent a bolt or a locking plate from dropping down into the cam chain area. If you drop a bolt or a plate down into the chain case, you will regret it as you will then need to remove the front cover and pan to gain access to anything dropped in there.

Once you have the two bolts out, remove the shop rag and rotate the engine again until the notch in the cam is pointed 90 degrees away from the surface of the cam cover gasket area. Now you can stuff the shop rag back in and undo the other lock tab ends and remove the other two bolts.

Note that there is a stud sticking out of the center of the cam sprocket that sticks through a bracket mounted to the front of the inside of the chain area. Now use a pry bar to pry the cam sprocket off of the cam flange being careful not to dislodge the large wire clip in the sprocket. With the cam sprocket loose slide the sprocket and chain up toward the top of the cam chain area and use either safety wire or such to secure the sprocket in this upward position. If you notice the center stud has a notch in it that you can secure the wire to. This just gets the sprocket up and out of the way.

You now must take steps to be sure the engine is not rotated as it will cause major damage to the engine. 

Now you can start removing the cam. loosed each nut a little at a time so that the cam comes up evenly down it's full length. Each cam bearing cap is numbered and a corresponding number is stamped into the head next to the cap number and they must not be mixed or rotated. Each bearing cap has two dowel pins at the bolt holes and some times they come loose when you remove them so be careful to catch every one. As you loosen each nut to allow the cam to come up evenly sometimes a bearing cap will stick so it may be necessary to at times pry the cam up against the cap as you retract it.  Most of the time when you get the cam almost all the way up it will flip over. This is not harmful other then to scare a new mechanic.  When you get the camshaft out, be careful not to drop it on a concrete floor as it is not steel and will break into several pieces.

Remove each lifter being careful to get each adjustment pad and keep it with it's lifter and place it so that you know for sure which bore each went into.  If you get them mixed up as to which valve they were on you have a large amount of work ahead of you getting them right again.

Now, if you worked quick enough, the engine is still warm and now is the time to drive all of the lifter sleeves down into their seats. The load on the lifter sleeve must be on the whole sleeve. Never on just one edge as they are easy to destroy. If the cam has been eating one away you may need to clean any burrs that would prevent the lifter from sliding up and down freely. I have been able to reseat a sleeve that had been cut away by an eighth of an inch by the cam lobe and continue to use it. If any pieces are broken out or the sleeve is cracked down the side it is better to have it replaced by an auto machine shop. In which case the head needs to be removed as I don't know of any method to remove a damaged sleeve with the head on. If you are faced with that, you should contact your closest Jaguar dealer and ask about it in case they have come up with a method to do that.

I use a half inch thick aluminum plate that fits over the lifter sleeve and I use a heavy drift on that plate. I found that most make a higher pitched sound when they are seated all the way. I can't always count on that so I use a dept gauge on the edge to tell me if it is down. Because of the differences in heads and casting there is no specific dept that I can tell you to use. The way I do it is to measure all of them and it will be obvious which ones are up out of their seats.

After driving the high ones down check their lifter to see that it slides freely up and down in the sleeve just in case you slightly distorted one.

If you distort one you can use a wheel cylinder hone with a liquid to clean it up a little. Don't over use it.

Now the method I use to install the stake down plates is as follows, I set a plate in place and use a transfer punch to put down through one hole of the plate while holding the plate in place. I first take a piece of shop rag and coat it with axle grease and stuff in under the webbing that I am going to drill and tap into. But you must push the rag past the point that you are going to drill into because you sure don't want to snag the shop rag piece with a drill bit nor a tap as you will have a hard time getting the drill bit or the tap out.

 I sometimes just drill through the hole in the plate as it is difficult to get the holes aligned in the head. Then I tap one hole and put a bolt in it to hold the plate in place while I drill through the other hole into the head with the tap drill so that it is aligned well for the tap. Being careful not to snag the piece of rag.   I then remove the plate and get the tap drill for the bolt I plan to use. One of the kits told what tap drill to use but as I stated I often get my own bolts. I prefer to use Allen cap screws and course thread as it holds better in aluminum. I use star type lock washers and still use lock-tight thread sealer too. 

The plates are two different lengths as the two valves in the center are a different distance apart then the end ones.

When I am finished drilling and tapping I fish out my piece of shop rag with a coat hanger or welding rod and the grease on the rag will get most all of any metal shavings from the drilling and tapping process. A little additional cleaning and you are finished and ready to put the cam back in.

Be sure to lube every thing and be sure the correct lifter and adjustment pad gets in it's correct position as does the bearing caps. Set the cam in place with the notch out at 90 degrees to the gasket surface. You can NOT just bolt the cam in and turn it to the correct position it MUST be assembled in time. Run each nut down a little at a time so the cam is pushed in place all along it's length as it is easily broken. You can clamp a pair of vice grips on the shaft to hold it as you work and it will give you a handle to rotate the small amount necessary to align the bolt holes.

If your top cam chain is tight, you may have to use a pry bar to force the sprocket up onto the cam flange. If you have to do that, put something across the gasket surface where you are prying so as not to harm the gasket surface. Don't pry on the center pin as it is not sturdy enough. You can't pry very hard on the bracket that the pin sticks through either as it is aluminum and can't take much of a load.

Don't forget to install the shop rag before trying to put the bolts and lock plates in. Only snug the two bolts up don't tighten them yet. Then remove the rag and rotate the engine until the other two bolt holes are accessible and install and tighten them and lock the tabs over on them. Now remove the rag and rotate again back so you can tighten the first two you installed and lock the tabs over.  These bolts are hardened bolts so never put a low grade bolt in their place.

I often check valve clearance on all of the exhaust valves before starting this procedure because it is easy to adjust to the correct valve pad to the correct valve clearance when you have the cam out to put the stake down kit in.

Any questions on this operation you can contact me either on line at the All-Experts program or contact me by e-mail on my web page.

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